69 Cafe

By Liz, 2010年 10月 9日

As a former cafe worker, I’m all for the proliferation of independent coffee shops – but dammit, Nanluoguxiang, you’ve gone too far.

At first stroll, the abundance of java dives lining the popular hutong’s 800-meter stretch would seem like a boon for coffee lovers. And I’ll admit, it’s nice to see some homegrown establishments laying claim to what could have turned into Starbucks/Costa/SPC territory.

But start poking your head inside and you realize why you never noticed there were ten shops instead of five – because they all look the same. Most of the ones I’ve seen have this generically bohemian thing going on, like a bunch of slightly scrappier SIT’s. You know what I’m talking about – dim lighting, chalkboard menus, square wooden tables full of self-satisfied Europeans (no offense, self-satisfied Europeans).

So it’s a surprise and delight if you’re lucky enough to stumble across 69 Cafe, a little coffee shop tucked away near the south end of Nanluoguxiang. This isn’t just a figure of speech – 69 is literally set back from the street, marked only by a small, black-and-white sign bearing the shop’s logo (two records forming a 69) stuck at the top of a stone doorway. Pass through the arch, and you’ll find yourself on a small path that leads through a tangle of plants and bicycles up to 69’s cozy, lantern-lit entrance.

I first heard about 69 from Rockland proprietor Xiao Zhan, who, in addition to running his own record store, is also co-owner of 69 Cafe. He, along with his partner Lin Lin, first opened the coffee shop around Christmas of 2009 as a space for their friends to hang out, listen to music, and hold small performances. In keeping with those goals, they ditched the NLGX coffee shop blueprint (boozefoodhookahjamasmanytablesinasyoucan) in favor of a more low-key, intimate space. The name, Xiao Zhan told me, is a reference to the year of Woodstock — an homage to the spirit of idealism and creativity that gave birth to the shop, and which they hope to foster in its small community.

In this respect, Xiao Zhan and Lin Lin have succeeded in their efforts. Despite 69’s small size and hidden-away locale, there’s nothing exclusive or unwelcoming about it. The single room is long and cozy, all warm tones and clean lines. Replacing the slick, hard wood of most NLGX coffee shops is a beige-carpeted floor and small pods of couches and chairs that huddle softly around coffee tables.

From the left-hand wall, pictures of musical icons like John Lennon, Nick Drake and Bob Dylan offer a reminder of the 69’s roots, a sentiment echoed by the cafe’s 60s-heavy musical rotation, which also features Chinese and World rock/folk. Best of all is the back wall, where shelves display books, records, movies, and an enviable selection of Rockland’s homemade cd’s for visitors’ perusal and purchase.

Prices are on par with other cafes in the area (around 20-25 RMB for a cup of coffee), but the service — by co-owner Lin Lin — is better and the quality’s good to boot. Though they’re short on food (snacks are all you’ll find here), 69 boasts a wide selection of teas, juices and, should you be so inclined, cocktails, along with some damnfine coffee, pulled fresh from the espresso machine.

Caffeine aside, 69 probably isn’t the best place to get some hardcore studying done or plan your next world takeover; if you don’t get sucked into a conversation with the gracious Lin Lin, you’ll probably find yourself picking through the music, or else dozing behind the beaded curtain. But if you don’t mind, they don’t mind. Besides, with the weather turning fast, it’s a hell of a nice way to spend a chilly afternoon.

Address: 109 Nanluoguxiang (南锣鼓巷109号)
Douban: douban.com/group/sixtynine

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